Vintage Jewelry FAQ

Question: Can anyone recommend a book that shows backs of jewelry, and clasps?

Answer: There isn't a book that deals specifically with construction. Some books are better at showing backs than others. Most don't do much of it at all. Cathy [Gordon] & Sheila's [Pamfiloff] book is the only one I know if that deals with this in depth, and of course, theirs is only about Haskell.
The problem with studying backs and findings and construction is it really tells so little of the story. You can not ID a piece from the back alone, for the most part. There are some exceptions, but in general the back of a piece, the type of clasp used, etc. is really not the important part of jewelry.
Finishes and clasps and findings were bought in bulk and used for years and years. So, even using them to date pieces is not very accurate. The same earring clip back could have been used for he last 60 years. There are SOME clues, but they are general. For example, in general, textured finished on plated backing was not used much before the 1950's. Or, there's a certain type of hinged pin stem that was not used much after Victorian times.
The problem with focusing on the backs and construction is one forgets to look at the style and design of a piece. If one is trying to determine a maker of an unsigned piece, beginning with construction is the wrong starting point. One should look at the design, the style first. THEN, look at the construction which *may* help validate (or not) the age or maker of an unsigned piece.
Also, if one is trying to learn how to date a piece, again, using findings is not the place to start. Start with history, what was popular when, what were women wearing when, what developments were going on in industry at the time.
Wearing jewelry has a LOT to do with social customs, popularity, Hollywood, economic times....etc. Get to know some fashion history, and you will be able to date pieces a little easier.
Some easy things to remember and there are generalities, and like everything else, does not mean always or never BUT
For the most part..white and/or silver metals were popular in the 1930's. Platinum look. Remember, rhinestone jewelry as we know it today was just beginning to experience popularity in the 1930's. Costume (meaning jewelry without precious gems) jewelry certainly existed before that, but costume jewelry per se, was influenced by several factors: popularity of movies and Hollywood starting in the late 1920's (hence the term 'costume' jewelry), b) the depression (starting in 1932) when people could not afford the real thing c) developments in manufacturing of rhinestones.
All white rhinestone (diamond look) jewels were more popular in the first half of the 1930's with more colored gems (rubies, sapphires, emeralds) being added to the mix in the latter half of the decade.
1920's was an era of economic wealth, people wore lots of jewels, all over, many necklaces with many bracelets with hair pieces and brooches. Color was BIG as was influence of travel and other cultures.
1940's white metals went out of fashion, gold tones came in. Including lots of rose gold combined with yellow gold. And, as WWII approached, gold washed sterling as other metals were used for the war effort.
Women started to work in large numbers, for the first time ever. That created quite a shift in fashion, jewelry included. Styles became, at least for daytime wear, more mannish and tailored, to go along with the more mannish suits that became more fashionable.
1950's signaled and end to war, lots of glamour and glitz. Movies and the new TV were big influencers. Lots of new manufacturing techniques, lots of mass production techniques developed for the war effort and then filtered into the private sector. It made jewelry affordable for the masses. White metals became popular again, the golds of the 1940's faded.

Fashion and dating info like this IS in books. You have to go through them and look and compare. Warman's is great. Old Jewelry really good. Victorian Jewelry excellent. Jewels of Fantasy terrific, though nearly impossible to get. Also, books that focus on specific eras are good too, like Art Deco jewelry. And don't forget books on fine jewelry or books like 'Hollywood Jewels' which track fashion trends. Costume jewels trends followed fine jewelry trends, so those are important to look at too, even if you don't deal or collect fine vintage.
I say.....get as many books as you can. Get all of them. I'm pushing close to 100 books now and have about 6 on my holiday wish list.